Syrah
75cl * 15% ABV * Rhône Valley, France
The Côte-Rôtie - or 'roasted hillside' - is the northernmost outpost of the Syrah grape, and perhaps the most famous northern Rhône appellation. Stéphane Ogier is one of the leading new-generation producers in the region, having joined his father in the family business in 1998 before taking over in 2003. This wine, La Belle Hélène, is an homage to his mother: 'c'est toujours ce qui éclaire qui demeure dans l'ombre'.
The wine is ripe and rich with plum and blackberry, with notes of cedar and violet. It comes from the oldest vines on the lieu-dit Côte Rozier, where the schist soil helps to produce structured, powerful wines. The 2019 vintage saw some extremes of heat, lending great density and concentration to the wine. After 24 months in barrel, and more new oak than his other cuvées, the tannins are silky and the fruit is well-balanced. There is an earthy minerality on the finish that adds to its complexity.
Though youthful, this wine is ready to drink and will age beautifully in the cellar until 2041. It would pair wonderfully with duck breast.
100 points, Jeb Dunnuck: 'Utter perfection in red wine, the 2019 Côte Rôtie Belle Helene comes from the Côte Rozier lieu-dit (just above La Landonne) and is not destemmed and brought up mostly in used barrels. In contrast to the more aromatic, finesse-driven Lancement, this is more powerful and masculine and has soaring aromatics of cassis, black raspberries, smoked meat, iron, graphite, and chocolate. Perhaps similar in style to the 2010 (or a mix of 2009 and 2010), its full-bodied, concentrated, and multi-dimensional on the palate, with building tannins and a monster of a mid-palate. It's an utterly brilliant, legendary Côte Rôtie that will evolve for three decades. It should hit prime time in 7-8 years.'